The Tiger 1200 has a cockpit layout that is vastly different from its predecessor, the Tiger Explorer. As a result few if any of the GPS mounts available for the Explorer will fit the Tiger 1200. None of the usual suppliers as of writing this article has anything readily available and appear to be unable or unwilling to produce anything suitable in the foreseeable future
Of course I could buy one of those generic mounts that fit the GPS to the handlebar. But I don't like to have my GPS mounted anywhere where I have to take my eyes off the street ahead to view the display.
There are some discussions on about this topic in the various Triumph internet forums, but no one apparently has yet come up with a viable solution for really heavy GPS units, mainly because the cockpit of the Tiger 1200 is of a layout not really conducive to position a GPS mount above the TFT cockpit instrument. So, as so often, I told myself "if you want it done, do it yourself", so here is my little guide on building that mount. All measures used in this tutorial are strictly adhering to the metric system.
You will need a set of regular workshop tools and a 3D printer. If you don't have a 3D printer, then there are many commercial companies available these days who can print the components of the GPS mount for you for a fee, just send them the print files you can download at the bottom of this page. I recommended to have the parts printed from ABS or another material resilient to higher temperatures.
You will need a variety of nuts and bolts in the sizes M4 to M8 and a tap and die set capable of cutting M4 threads. You will also need a solid 12 mm diameter aluminium tube of 104 mm length, about 500 mm of aluminium profile (I used an "L" shape profile of about 18 x 7 mm with 1.5 mm thickness, but a flat 20 mm profile would work, too) and a 300 mm long stainless steel threaded rod in size M8.
This GPS mount is designed for an AMPS-compatible GPS (30 mm x 38 mm hole pattern).
Download and unpack the print files for the various components of the GPS holder. The print files contain the following items:
The AMPS GPS clamp - you will need to print two of these. Note that two versions of clamps are included; the regular one for 30mm x 38mm hole pattern which I am using in this build and a second version with a 90 degrees offset for the 12mm aluminium bar, i. e. for a 38mm x 30mm hole pattern. A number of mostly handheld GPS types use this alternative hole pattern. So please check before you print which version you need for your device.
The instrument panel cover mounting body - you will need to print one of these
The windscreen carrier support bracket - you will need to print four of these
The GPS riser - you will need to print two of these
The GPS side support - you will need to print two of these
For the printed components a printer setting of four shells and 15% infill is recommended. For the instrument panel cover mounting body supports and a raft are recommended, all other items should print fine with a raft only.
Some friendly advice first: I would strongly recommend to read these entire assembly instructions prior to commencing the work. This assembly requires some mechanical and practical aptitude. Do not attempt the assembly if you don't feel confident that you can do it. Getting it wrong may result in your GPS coming off the mount while riding your bike. This might not only damage or destroy your GPS unit, but may also lead to you having an accident. You have been warned...
Remove the four hex bolts that keep the windscreen in place. Remove the windscreen. Next remove the two hex bolts that hold the electrically adjustable windscreen lever arm:
Caution: the lever is spring loaded. Carefully lower the lever to the bottom position until it rests against the cockpit assembly. Next remove the central hex bolt attaching to the electric motor lever that adjusts the windscreen:
Remove the windscreen mounting bracket. Next remove the circlip holding the right handside windscreen adjustment pivot shaft in place:
Remove the shaft and immediately replace it with an M8 x 60 bolt, ensuring that the bolt head points away from the cockpit instrument, i. e. is inserted from the right side. Be careful not to misalign the tensioning spring. Once the M8 bolt is inserted, repeat the process for the left handside pivot shaft, this time ensuring that the M8 bolt head is inserted from the left side and again points away from the cockpit instrument. Keep the original pivot shafts and circlips, in case you ever need to reverse this assembly.
Next remove the two hex bolts that keep the instrument cover in place. Note that the windscreen holder in the picture below should by now already have been removed, so please ignore its presence in this picture:
Once the two hex bolts are removed the instrument cover is only held in place by three plastic lugs. You can remove the instrument cover by carefully prying it downwards and upwards.
Position the instrument panel cover mounting body on top of the instrument cover so that the mounting body extends for exactly 40 mm beyond the instrument cover just as in this picture:
Ensure that you also place the mounting body absolutely central and straight onto the instrument cover. Failure to do this will result in an off-centred or skewed GPS in the mount. Once the position is correct, drill the four 6 mm holes for the mounting body into the instrument cover and bolt the mounting body to the instrument cover using four M6 x 25 bolts:
Should you ever wish to reverse this assembly, then the instrument cover with those four ugly holes in it will need to be replaced. Luckily it costs only around 22 Euros, the Triumph part number is T2304534.
Here is the bottom side of the instrument cover with the mounting body attached with those four M6 x 25 bolts, showing the three plastic lugs (arrowed) that keep the instrument cover in place:
Re-fit the instrument cover. Take care to correctly slide those three plastic lugs back into the rubber protected cutouts, then re-fit the two hex bolts keeping the cover in place. Here is how that should look:
The next step is to partly slide the 300 mm piece of M8 threaded rod through the main GPS support brackets like in this picture:
Then add the combination of M8 washer - circlip - bolt - bolt - circlip - washer onto the threaded rod like in this picture:
Push the threaded rod onwards, while turning the two nuts to keep them and the circlips and washers in their position. The threaded rod should be in a central position when both ends protrude about 110 mm on each side like in this picture:
Slide the two GPS risers onto the threaded rod like in the picture below, ensuring that the support connector (arrowed) is pointing towards the front wheel:
Secure the two risers with another washer - circlip - nut combination like the left one already is in above picture.
In the next step you should take the solid 12 mm diameter aluminium tube and cut off a length of exactly 104 mm:
Drill two 3.3 mm parallel holes through the centre of the aluminium tube exactly 90 mm apart (long arrows). Then cut an M4 thread into those holes using a suitable thread cutter. Place the two AMPS clamps onto the tube and bolt them down using four M5 bolts with washers and self-locking nuts (short arrows) as in this picture:
Do not yet fully tighten those M5 self locking nuts, as the AMPS clamps may need some adjustment later.
Next bolt the two GPS side supports (arrowed) onto the mounting body using M6 bolts, washers and circlips like in this picture:
Next slide the 12 mm solid aluminium tube with the loosely attached AMPS clamps into the relevant openings of the GPS risers (long arrow), making sure that the bolt hole (short arrow) aligns with the previously cut M4 thread-holes in the aluminium tube:
Secure the aluminium tube within the GPS risers using a M4 x 18 hex bolt (arrowed) in each GPS riser:
Next we need to cut the aluminium L-profile. Mine is 18 x 7 mm with 1.5 mm thickness. If you can't get a suitable "L" profile, then a straight 20 mm profile will probably do, too. Cut two length of 130 mm and two length of 110 mm:
Take the two 130 mm L-profiles and align one of the four windscreen carrier support brackets to it as in below picture. Mark the two 4 mm holes and drill the first two holes for the top windscreen carrier support brackets. Repeat the drilling for the bottom windscreen carrier support bracket, ensuring that the central holes for each carrier are 67 mm apart as in below picture:
Bolt the windscreen carrier support bracket onto the L-profile using two M4 bolts each with washers and self-locking nuts. Make sure that the top windscreen carrier support bracket is placed onto the M8 threaded rod pointing rearwards and bolted onto the L-profile on the inside as per the above picture. Also ensure that the bottom windscreen carrier support bracket is placed on the bottom M8 x 60 bolt pointing forwards and that it is bolted onto the L-profile on the outside as per above picture.
This is necessary due to the limited space that the windscreens outer edges allow the assembly to protrude. Repeat the process for the second 130 mm L-profile on the other side. Secure the bottom windscreen support brackets on the M8 x 60 bolt using washers and self-locking nuts, but do not tighten these self-locking M8 nuts yet.
Next drill a central 6 mm hole 10 mm from the top end of each of the two 110 mm L-profiles. Place the 6 mm hole against the corresponding hole on the support connector of the GPS riser and secure the L-profile with a suitable M6 bolt (arrowed) with washers and a self locking nut:
Mark the two bottom 4 mm holes of the GPS side support on the bottom end of the 110 mm L-profile, ensuring that the distance from the centre of the top 6 mm hole to the upper of the two 4 mm holes is exactly 70 mm:
Depending on your type of GPS and its attachment to the AMPS clamps (i. e. its AMPS mount) you may have to slightly modify that length of 70 mm for the distance between the top 6 mm hole and the upper of the two 4 mm bottom holes. You may want to test-fit the windscreen at this stage and verify that the electric screen adjustment allows free movement of the windscreen from the top to the bottom position. For my Garmin 276Cx those 70 mm fitted perfectly. As this is a rather big GPS unit I would however be surprised if other units would require a significantly different length.
Secure the two 4 mm bottom holes of each GPS side support with suitable M4 bolts with washers and self-locking nuts.
Now tighten all remaining nuts and bolts except the four M5 AMPS clamp bolts and verify that the entire assembly sits solidly above the cockpit instrument. Temporarily re-fit the windscreen, then rotate the AMPS clamps on the 12 mm solid aluminium tube so that the GPS unit is in the optimal viewing position for you:
Once you have found the optimal position, remove the windscreen again and finally tighten the four M5 self-locking nuts of the AMPS clamps fully to secure the clamps in place. Fit the windscreen again, verify that all is in order and carry out a test-ride with the GPS mounted.
The AMPS cradle of your GPS can be powered by routing the power cable between the cockpit instrument and the instrument cover. From there, route the power supply cable around the steering column and on towards the power supply socket at the front end of the tank. If you remove the power supply socket you will find ample space underneath to clip in the power supply cable into the circuit. That power socket is permanently powered, so your GPS will have power supplied even with the ignition switched off.
At the time of reviewing this in November 2018 (after designing it in March 2018), I have covered well over 18000 km (11000 miles) with this assembly on my Tiger 1200, having it carrying a Garmin 276Cx with a weight of 500 grams including the battery. That heavy GPS sits rock solid on this mount. If strong, buffeting wind is encountered, then the windscreen tends to vibrate slighty (which it does regardless of having this GPS mount attached or not). This movement also causes a very slight movement of the GPS mount, but its hardly noticeable and only occurs under rather adverse wind conditions. Given that currently no commercial GPS mount that places the GPS unit above the cockpit is available, this solution appears to me as good as any amateur can make one. Drop me a mail if you can come up with any improvements. I hope this manual might be useful, but as usual I can't give any guarantees. Ride safely.
Here is the print file download link for the various components of the GPS holder again.
Others have build this GPS holder in the past month. Here is the build Andy from Surrey has created:
Thanks for sending me this picture, Andy. You picked my favourite colour.